Immediately from the train, I met our local guide, a lovely bloke. Saying goodbye to our new Dutch, Schwarzenegger-loving friends amidst promises to meet over the next couple of days, this new terrible trio (Brit, Oz and Ruski) promptly boarded another form of transport. Our stay in Irkutsk was not a long one, and as we hurtled towards our next destination in treacherous conditions, I spotted the first speed limit sign since my arrival in Russia- sometimes you just have to smile! Inevitably, said marker was completely ignored, and shortly afterwards as our vehicle crested a snow covered hill, Lake Baikal flooded the horizon. This was a moment which the word breathtaking cannot do justice. Even in January, the lake (which is the deepest in the world and contains 20% of the world's unfrozen fresh water) fails to freeze. Apparently, this only happens a few weeks later- and this winter was especially mild (Though -20 didn't seem especially mild at the time). Skirting the lake closely, we soon reached our final destination of the day: Listvyanka, immediately on the shore. Immediate thoughts (after incredulity at our survival from the trip unscathed) were mainly to related to dogs. There were lots of dogs. They all bark. Lots. Yes, the lake itself was utterly spectacular, in majestic contrast to the crumbling soviet buildings littering its circumference. But the dogs were not. Did I mention the dogs?
Having spent some time wandering the lake's edge, we saw the day out over dinner in a big group- for some reason, the majority of the restaurants seemed to be closed (strange even for off-season). Nevertheless, we located a friendly and more importantly open establishment, wherein I tried fish exclusive to Baikal: 'omul'. Delicious, and stuffed with mushrooms, sweet peppers and all sorts of herbs. Probably one of the best meals of the trip so far! Also took the opportunity to indulge myself a little bit, and went ultra-russian with 'dessert'. I'm not sure it's possible to have more local food than pancakes with caviar! Again, very tasty indeed!
The following day, I had a hefty breakfast laid on by the woman running our hostel- ideal preparation for a day with many activities planned. I'll take this opportunity to post a picture of the view from my window, as I managed to take a picture on my tablet rather than camera for a change! Post-food, took a brief trip to the fish/souvenir market, a few minutes walk from our accommodation. I've started to collect bracelets from each place I've been to. This as you'd imagine can get quite out of hand quite quickly if you're travelling long term... but more on that soon!
Next, I tried dog-sledding. The noise as one approaches the lodge is already deafening, and words really can't do it justice- this is in complete contrast to the sled ride itself- the dogs, once free to run, fell completely silent and this effect was only magnified by the surly, completely averse to conversation-russian man who sat in the front of the sled as I held the reins. Also, I don't think my hands have ever felt as cold as they did during this ride. Bone-chilling never really struck me as an accurate phrase until this day! More Dutch people emerged as we rode- they do get around, the Dutch!
By this point, you may be wondering about the relevance of the title of this post- I saved the best until last, of course. Banya (banja) is the name of a typical Russian sauna experience, whereby you enter and leave a sauna at regular intervals, drinking tea, jumping in a huge mound of snow outside (in scant clothing!) and being whipped with soaked birch tree branches. It's an exhilarating, bizarre and totally unique experience and I absolutely loved it. No, not in that way. This is in spite of my general and apparently strange dislike for all things hot- jacuzzis, steam rooms and over-hot showers.
The remainder of my time in Listvyanka pales somewhat in comparison. However, it would be an incredibly poor judgment to neglect mentioning the view from a nearby observation point. While I'm perfectly aware I go to town on the superlatives, another one applies to this experience. Marvellous. Yes, marvellous. I'm living the dream.
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