Friday, 28 February 2014

More Russian excess, a bit of hockey and Lenin

Obviously, having been struck by the curse of low battery at the most inopportune moment, a return to Red Square was inevitable the following day. This time, however, we went a few steps further and ventured into the Kremlin itself. Within this enormous walled area are numerous chapels at various stages of restoration, as well as the 'armoury', a museum which simply reinforced my impression that Tsars really did have far far too much money and time on their hands. Classic, original suits of armour were impressive enough, but the ceremonial sets and arms were of such flamboyance that if anyone had actually worn them for a battle, they would have been targeted and killed immediately by anyone with even an iota of sense. In summary, this level of opulence is just silly.
Back down to earth with a bang, we dined in a food court (though a lovely shopping centre's food court). Soup was prominent as with many Russian eateries, and thisnwas accomoanied by a chicken kiev and a bizarre starchy couscous hazelnut mixture. Again, all very lovely, but this did little to assuage the irritation I felt when I realised that Lenin's mausoleum was closed for the day. Hence, the following day seemed destined to be rushed! Instead of the planned mausoleum visit, a sobering visit to a gulag museum ensued. No jokes here, just a recommendation that at least once in a lifetime, one needs to experience something along the lines of such a museum.
The evening brought more lighthearted activities as we ventured to a CSKA Moscow ice hockey match. For those who don't know me well, I have a deep-seated love for all things hockey which was instilled in me during my time living in Toronto, Canada. Needless to say, this opportunity got me very excited indeed. The advertising blimp, costume changing cheerleaders and stereotypical hockey food almost had me in a frenzy, especially as the home team waltzed through the opposition. All together, an excellent evening- and I've started a collection of wristbands/bracelets... more on this later!

Determination to see the late great spark of the Bolshevik revolution brought us to Red Square one final time the following day, before the train's departure for the frozen lands of Siberia. To be honest, after all of the hype around Lenin,  I was a bit disappointed. He looked like a waxwork- or indeed, *very* well preserved considering the decades he's been entombed in very public view. Whilst still wondering about this, we didn't actually achieve much wandering- and consequently, a mad dash to and fro to collect bags and get to the train station followed.
Loaded up with supplies for a 4+days journey to Irkutsk, we, the intrepid oz-brit combo, boarded the train with no idea of what to expect...

Sunday, 23 February 2014

Long awaited update

Ahoy- as it happens, wi-fi is remarkably hard to come by in certain places. I'm also now in Malaysia, but I'll get to that! For now, I'll return to Russia and continue from where I left off.
Having found the train, I was relatively surprised at how nice our berth was: a comfy 4 bed compartment, admittedly not the most spacious but still better than expected! This journey, between St Petersburg and Moscow, was only scheduled to take about 9 hours overnight- so there wasn't much of an opportunity to get to know the Russian who shared our berth. This was a great shame- even though he spoke stilted English at best, we still got on well and he recommended places to visit in Moscow! A pleasant journey was improved yet further by the train attendant (generally there are one of these per carriage, to distribute linen, keep order and help passengers) who brought free hot drinks to us- coffee before bed didn't turn out to be the most intelligent of choices but I suppose we live and learn!
My first impression of Moscow was dominated by the metro station- spectacular murals eveywhere, it really does live up to its billing. There was a lot of snow as expected on the walk to the hostel, making the journey rather more difficult than I would have liked- but a pleasant surprise greeted me at the hostel: a dorm room pretty much to ourselves, free coffee and decent wi-fi. Ideal!
Taking a lengthy orietation walk, the main difference between here and St Petersburg seems to be the number of onion domes (there are a LOT more here). It's a really beautiful city, and my camera responded to this in appropriate fashion by running out of battery promptly on arrival in Red Square. Sod's law.
Another incident followed which shows my incredible aptitude for bad luck: having found a coin (part of an elaborately superstitious ritual which is meant to bring good luck), I promptly slipped on some beautiful marble detailling on the floor and hurt my leg.
On the other hand, my mood was considerably improved when we (the anglo-ozzie duo, of course) found out we had bagged tickets to ice hockey the following night. Also, we had dinner at a phenomenal georgian place we were recommended after getting awfully, horrifically lost on the way. Luckily (very luckily) a friendly architect not only pointed us in the right direction, but actually walked with us for about twenty minutes. Though I'd imagine it is almost impossible she would ever read this, I am eternally grateful to her!
Bye for now!